Yesterday I arrived in Kodaikanal (a hill station on the Western Ghats 2000m above sea level) for a short break before I retire into seclusion for a month at Bodhi Zendo – a Zen meditation centre located about 20kms from Kodaikanal. It was a welcome relief to be in the cool climate here after the hot and humid weather (about 38C daily) at the ashram. On the last day of yoga training we learned and practised kriyas (cleansing techniques for the body). The first technique is cleaning the nostrils with water. We pour water in through one nostril with the help of a small plastic gadget and then let the water come out through the other nostril. This we managed without much difficulty. The second technique is cleaning the tube (not sure what this body part is called) between the nose and the mouth. This is done by inserting one end of a rubber catheter into one nostril until it reaches the back of the throat and then using the fingers the other end is pulled out of the mouth. Once this is achieved one then moves the catheter to and fro by holding the end at the nostril and the end at the mouth. This is then repeated for the other nostril. This technique is quite difficult as it is rather uncomfortable inserting a tube into the throat via the nostril. The third technique is cleaning the oesophagus by slowly swallowing a length of cotton gauze into the stomach and then slowly pulling the gauze out. This, of course, is rather difficult but the last technique (cleaning the stomach) takes the cake. This is done by swallowing copious amount of water and then vomiting it out. Only a couple of us (not me!) were game to try this seemingly gruesome method.
So are there any changes after two weeks at the Yoga ashram? For most of us we definitely felt healthier, calmer and spiritually more aware. Just the yogic diet together with the asana and pranayama practice would be beneficial to the body. For me this would have been the longest for a long while that I have continuously eaten wholesome vegetarian food and not imbibe alcohol of any kind. (And I still have not had a beer after arrival in Kodaikanal!!!). My knowledge of Vedantic philosophy has increased and I have a much better appreciation of the different manifestations (and their relationships) of the Brahman in the Hindu religion (if one can call it a religion). The greatest benefit for me was living in an environment where I can continuously tune my body, mind and spirit to the higher Self without any distractions. Personally I wish there is more meditation time but for others an hour of meditation is more than enough. Overall my spine is suitably strengthened and my mind is clear and calm. These two weeks have certainly prepared me for the week-long sesshin (intensive Zen meditation) that is starting this Monday.
But first a couple of days to chill out in Kodaikanal. Kodai (as the locals call it) is a stunningly situated and hassle-free hill station on the Western Ghats about 120km northwest of Madurai ( a 3½hr bus ride away). Kodai is the only hill station set up by Americans, when missionaries established a school for European children here in 1901. The legacy of this is the renowned Kodaikanal International School whose cosmopolitan influence is felt throughout the town. Children of expats and wealth Indian families are visible all over town and restaurants offer an excellent variety of cuisine that is atypical of most other small towns in India. Kodai has also attracted the locals and is now the hill station of choice to escape the heat and haze of the plains. Between mid-April and mid-June the place is packed with local holiday makers (the middle class and the rich) from all over South India and beyond. As I arrived in the midst of the high season I had difficulty finding a room and had to pay more than I expected. There are hardly any foreign travellers here (I was the lone foreigner on the bus up) as there is really nothing much of interest in Kodai. But the place suits me – nothing to do and nowhere to go.
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